Traditional skill and expertise

Raymond Crombez de Montmort has taken over from his uncle, Bernard L’Huillier, as owner-manager of the estate.

All the Armagnacs are from the La Béroje vineyards, and every stage of the production cycle is still skilfully carried out on the estate, including the grape harvest, wine-making, distillation, aging, bottling and sales. This is something quite rare nowadays, as the Armagnac market belongs primarily to the big Cognac houses, owner-managers now producing only 10% of the brandy sold

Single distillation – an Armagnac tradition

The wine in the vat (1) gradually fills the column (wine-heater 4) then pours into the distillation column (5) via the swan-neck pipe; when the wine hits the hot plates it vaporises and the vapour rises up through the wine that is bubbling its way down the plates (6), absorbing the alcohol and most of the aromatic substances on its way. The vapour then escapes from the top of the column into the ‘cooler’ and travels down through the coil (3). The freshly arriving cold wine surrounding the coil causes the vapour to condense, whereas the wine itself gradually heats up as it rises. When it leaves the still (7), the Armagnac is colourless and at 52° – 55°, fiery yet already steeped in rich aromas.

The aging process: an alchemy of wood and alcohol

Here at La Béroje, our brandies are distilled in the time-honoured, traditional Armagnac fashion: one single, continuous distillation in a copper still, which ensures that all the delicate aromas of the terroir and its vineyards are retained. The ‘burning water’ is clear as it leaves the still, and around 53° – 55°. It then fills the oak barrels in our 18th century, cool, shady barrel-room. Contact with the new wood enriches the brandy with a whole range of new additions – tannin, vanilla fragrances, a hint of spice…as it settles down and begins to colour; it will then go on to start the long aging process, transferring to older casks if the cellar-master sees fit.

The clay floor and tiled roof help to maintain the stable, humid atmosphere that is perfect for slowly aging our Armagnac.

As time goes by the brandy gradually loses its bite, becoming more rounded and smooth and taking on a pale gold hue followed by amber, while the juices mingle…In this vibrant dialogue between wood and alcohol the fragrances melt and merge, until the brandies reach their sublime aromatic peak at around 30 years of age (at which point they are at around 40-43°): vanilla, nuts, the scent of vine blossom, prunes, candied apricot, lime-flower … and then notes of Rancio, so typical of old Armagnacs from the terroirs of Bas Armagnac, subtly blending spice, prunes, and a hint of lightly cooked butter.

The work of the cellar-master

Inspecting the colour and limpidity and checking for leaks.

After spending a certain amount of time in the new barrels, the brandy is transferred to older ones in order to avoid any excess tannin masking the more delicate primary aromas. The oldest of all are kept either in very old barrels that help to preserve their aromatic maturity, or in demi-johns.

Bottling

When it is deemed to be ready, the Armagnac is bottled in the castle’s former « fournière ».

The vintage is hand-written on the label.

FIND OUR ARMAGNAC ?

Some restaurants and retailers :

Carré des Feuillants (Alain Dutournier) – Paris

Le Trou Gascon – Paris

Les Caves Marly – Marly-le-Roy

Apicius (Jean-Pierre Vigato) – Paris

Maison Rostang – Paris

Hôtels Esprit de France – Paris – Aix

Les caves Taillevent – Paris

Magnin vin & spiritueux – Cully, Suisse

Caves Jacquèmes – Aix-en-Provence

Le Vin devant soi – Avignon